Hardened Steel
Fillers chew through brass fast. Hardened steel holds its size, so print #50 comes out like print #1.
Best for carbon fiber, glass fiber, metal-filled, glow-in-the-dark
M6x1 thread, E3D V6 style -- they drop into the 22 IDEX, Creality and most common hotends.

Same M6x1 thread on all three -- swap between them as the job changes.
Fillers chew through brass fast. Hardened steel holds its size, so print #50 comes out like print #1.
Best for carbon fiber, glass fiber, metal-filled, glow-in-the-dark
Better heat transfer than hardened steel. Your everyday nozzle for anything without a filler in it.
Best for PLA, PETG, ABS, PC, nylon, PEEK, PPSU, ULTEM™
A longer melt zone for Volcano-style heater blocks, in plated copper -- the highest heat transfer we sell. Push more plastic per hour, up to 1.2mm.
Best for high-flow printing and big nozzle sizes. Keep abrasive filaments out of it.
Down to the last 0.2mm and 0.8mm. When they're gone, they're gone.
Spares on the shelf before you need them.
Hardened steel, every size.
Brass, every size.
Plated copper Volcano nozzles, mixed sizes.
0.2, 0.4, 0.6 -- read it right off the nozzle. You're never guessing which one's installed.
The part between the cold side and the hot side of your hotend. It decides where the filament melts -- so when it clogs, the whole hotend stops.
We make this heat break ourselves, so we control the supply -- and we know exactly what goes into it.
The same heat break goes in every 22 IDEX hotend since v2. One spare covers the whole fleet.
A clogged heat break looks just like a jammed nozzle. Swap both and you're printing again.
Air is a lousy conductor. Any gap around your heater cartridge or temperature sensor means slower heat-up and a sloppier temperature reading -- this paste fills it.
Coat them before they go in the block. Heat gets where it's going, and the sensor reads what the block is actually doing.
Boron nitride doesn't conduct electricity, so squeeze-out around your heater and sensor wiring is no problem.
It keeps parts from seizing in the block, so your next hotend rebuild doesn't start with a fight.
Match your Stratasys tip to a GBX assembly below.
Hardened to outlast stock tips on filled materials. Also fits the Gearbox HT2.
| Your Stratasys tip | Order this |
|---|---|
| T10 | GBX10 |
| T12 | GBX12 |
| T12SR20 | GBX12SR20 |
| T12SR30 | GBX12SR30 |
| T12SR100 | GBX12SR100 |
| T14 | GBX14 |
| T16 | GBX16 |
| T20 · T20C · T20D | GBX20 |
| T40A | GBX40 |
Fits Fortus 360, 380, 400, 450 and 900.

Most bad prints we troubleshoot come down to a worn or dirty nozzle. They're cheap -- swap them often.
Abrasive filament can open up the hole with as little as 100g through it, and a worn-down tip drags across the layer below. Wider lines, rough surface, banding -- swap it.
Jams and burnt-on plastic? Clean it with a torch, or just swap in a fresh one. They're cheap.
Swapping a nozzle? Check the heat break too. A clogged one jams just like a bad nozzle.
Every piece of the 22 IDEX hotend, sold on its own. All 22 IDEX parts ›
If you're not happy for any reason, give us a call and we'll make it right. That's our promise.
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